Day 90

Early this morning a flash thunderstorm rolled over the tent soaking me and my gear before I could get the rain fly on. I took it as a sign to get up and start paddling. The calm of the early morning quickly gave way to a hot and windy afternoon. The river became more active with shipping, commercial fisherman and recreational anglers as I paddled closer to the head of passes. I stopped shortly before noon and enjoyed lunch on a small sandy beach tucked into the marsh. After lunch I could clearly see the head of passes down river, big waves and lots of boat traffic crossing back and forth. As I was trying to figure out the best line of approached a crabbing boat pulled up along side the canoe. The crew were excited to meet me and showered the canoe with gifts of Powerade, water, and snacks. Brett the captain made sure I put his number in my phone after giving me a good description of what lay downriver. I was filled with excitement as the mile markers counted down the last couple of miles. A few hundred yards before the head of passes I came across Pilot Town. It is an outpost of buildings and docks that supply river pilots to incoming ships. All commerical ships coming up river must have a pilot. I was amazed as I watched the small fast boats pull along side the large moving freighters, down would drop a ladder and the pilot would climb up onto the moving ship. Coming to the opening at head of passes I paddled hard for the large platform and marker representing mile zero of the river. The waves and current tossed the canoe as I tied off to the rough timbered platform and climbed up. The platform was about fifteen feet tall and I was able to enjoy the 360 degree view at mile zero. Back in the canoe I paddled slowly down South Pass towards Port Eads. For about 8 miles I could not see anything but the tall reeds lining the bank. I was starting to worry I was paddling out to nowhere. Finally I could see the lighthouse at Port Eads miles down the pass. I was getting very tired as I paddled the last leg beyond Port Eads High Adventure Marina and out to the Gulf. As I rounded the last bend I was finally greeted with open water, no more land to paddle towards! I floated in the canoe enjoying a feeling of accomplishment and taking some photos. Tired but happy I paddled back to the marina and was greeted by the staff. My mom had booked me a room and told them all about my trip. The staff shared boiled crabs and shrimp with me. We stood on the balcony, throwing the scraps to a alligator below us and watched the sunset. I was able to celebrate with a hot shower, a good meal, and cold beer. I also enjoyed meeting some fisherman that were staying the night. The next day I wasn't feeling lucky on getting a ride back so I called Captain Brett of the Delta Force crab boat. It was a unique and fun ride back to shore on the crab boat. The crew showed me how they run the traps and package the crabs. I had a friend pick me up for the ride back to Jackson. It has been a wonderful adventure, but as these things tend to be it was an anticlimactic end. Your working towards the goal for months and then in one moment it is complete. I encourage people to take as much time as you can when making such an adventure, it is the memories of all the days spent working towards the goal that are the best part. I want to thank everyone who has supported my along the way. If you have enjoyed this blog I encourage you to please make a donation to Wolf River Conservancy so natural treasures like this river can be wild and litter free for the future enjoyment of others.

Day 89

Up and one the water at 4:45 again this morning. First thing I noticed was that yesterdays strong current had dropped off sharply. I looked at the tide chart and saw that it would start to go back out about 10. I paddled the slack water and enjoyed a sky full of waterfowl while waiting and the tide and  current to work in my favor. I passed very few docks and only a handful of freighters, barge traffic has almost completely died off. By lunch I had reached the area where the left hand side of the river is only swamp, home only to wild creatures . The right bank is a thin ribbon of land with a two lane highway and a few homes, to the west of that it is more miles of swamp only. I stopped north of Port Sulfur for lunch at a small cafe. A half dozen women sat in the corner talking and laughing, they were speaking Creole a mix of French, Spanish, English and some African, I couldn't even start to understand what they were saying. A few hours after lunch I reached the point were I could not keep my eyes open. I spotted a gravel bar, something completely out of place down here and paddled over. I found a nice spot in the shade and took a nap for about an hour. Waking up refreshed I paddled on towards the sounds of an air boat playing down river. I rounded a bend and the air boat came flying out of the marsh and came to stop beside me. The man and his girlfriend offered me a beer and we spent about an hour visiting. Being from this end of the world he was able to give me what I hope is good advice on the final part of this trip. The river miles are numbered, they have been counting down to mile 0 since Cairo Illinois, river mile 950. I am attempting a Source thru to Sea of the Mississippi River. I need to paddle to mile 0 of the river to finish the thru portion, then paddle another 13 miles taking South Pass out into the Gulf. Easy enough right? Just keep paddling as usual, getting back to a boat landing is were things get interesting. The road ends at river mile 10, so when I finish I am 23 plus miles downstream from "land". The gentleman told me that at Port Eds they have rebuilt a marina with rooms and bar/restaurant.Being a Friday he assures me there will be steady stream of boats going back to land at Venice. South Pass is only two miles further downstream from Port Eds. I am currently at or about river mile 25. Tomorrow I plan to get up early, paddle to mile zero and take a picture at the marker. Next I will paddle to Port Eds and see who is around, maybe talk someone in to following me out of South Pass, taking some pics and hauling me in. If not, I will paddled out and back, working on finding a ride after I return to Port Eds.  I doubt I will sleep much tonight I am full of excitement to see the Gulf. A long trip like this quickly becomes about waking up and paddling day after day, week after week, the scale of total trip is lost when you live it at 5 miles per hour. When I was asked how far I had traveled this evening and I said twenty two hundred plus miles, it really hit me how far I have traveled. All I lack now, is finishing up.

Day 88

Up and on the water at 4:30. Even though I couldn't see perfectly  I could tell by the way the canoe was handling that I had some good current to work with today. I had been hoping for a week plus that raising water levels would bring better current. I have given up trying to figure out why the water in this river does the things it does. Scientists using the most powerful computers available and combining all we know can not predict what a large river like this will do much less a guy like me. The sky was slightly overcast and the sun came up as a red ball in the sky, not able to unleash its full strength till mid morning. During the overcast morning I was able to see several hundred water birds of all types, seagulls, flights of white pelican, wood ducks, blue and green teal, blue and white herons and several eagles. I was super excited about paddling the river through New Orleans. I have spent a good deal of time there and made many happy memories. One of my favorite memories is of a time from my early twenties. I was working on a shrimp boat down in south central Louisiana and we were returning to Mississippi were the boat was based. It was night time as we passed through New Orleans and I was in awe as we passed the big ships in the 65 foot wood hulled shrimp boat. The captain told me to climb the tall outrigger and sit on the round disc on top and wait for instructions. Sitting high over the river enjoying the view I was confused as to what task I could do from forty feet above the deck. Captain Timmy shouted "look left and enjoy". Facing the left bank I enjoyed as the river walk, Jackson Square and St Louis cathedral  bathed in night lights passed below me. Today as I rounded the corner, paddling past the old power generation plant north of the river walk I was given a treat. The Port of New Orleans was dredging near the cruise terminal downstream blocking off half the river to ship and barge traffic. I was able to paddle around the discharge pipe at mid river and then drift with the current enjoying as my favorite 2 miles of river front unfolded. Reaching the Jackson Square I paddled over to the bank, before I could get out of the canoe I was being hustled for protection money for the canoe. I not so nicely told the man to move along. I quickly covered the distance to the closest shop in the French Quarter Market. i bought a praline and some cold drinks. I was walking back to the canoe when a man stopped me and ask if I was the paddler? I figured he was going to tell me my canoe was being stolen but he was actually another long distance paddler. Park was from Greenville Ms and had recently joined two paddlers who were finishing a trip. His wife had picked him up the day before. We took a few photos and I paddled on out. The sun was really starting to beat down on me when I felt slight breeze developing. After no wind for a week, the breeze was enough to allow me to paddle during the second part of the day. Ten miles south of New Orleans the industrial plants and docks along the bank give way to mostly willows and cottonwoods. About three I stopped at the Scarsdale ferry crossing to visit the country store located there. I enjoyed some chicken tenders, fires and more cold powerade. Just before sundown I found a  pipeline crossing that had been sprayed and cut recently and set up camp. I am 64 miles from the end of the river.

Day 87

I set the alarm for 4:30 and was up before it went off. It was still dark outside but the lights from all the factories and docks made seeing the river and everything on it very easy. I had noticed the last few days when I woke up between 3 and 4 AM I saw no traffic on the river. I turned on the VHF radio and heard no traffic for the firs half hour. When someone did come on they couldn't find anyone to answer their transmission. Around 5:30 I started to see the work tugs firing up engines and deck hands going through ropes and tools. Around 6 some of the more motivated tugs were moving into position but not yet doing any work. I had my head lamp on and a few of them placed their spot light on me as they sat in the wheel house drinking coffee and chatting on the radio. I loved watching the sun come up over the normally busy river, the water was smooth and making good time was easy. At 6:30 on the dot it was like a starting gun was fired as everyone went to work. I had several tug boats and work boats crews drive near the canoe and ask for pictures. Several said they had heard there was a guy in a canoe coming and to keep an eye out. I was given a few bottles of cold water and many well wishes. Around mid morning I was surprised by a P 51 mustang and a Hellcat fighter that came zipping along about 150 feet over the river. They banked up and had a mock dogfight before making another low pass over the river. Moments later I saw a B 29 bomber fly by followed by two F 16 fighters. A interesting break from the normal river traffic. At 10 I stopped under the 310 bridge to check the map and rivergator, I was excited to see I only had about 10 miles or two hours to reach Kenner just north of New Orleans. My daily mileage from here on is somewhat set as the camping spots till I reach below New Orleans are very few. I had paddled the West bank as usual but Kenner was on the East requiring me to cross the busy shipping lane.  I paddled into the shadow of a anchored ocean going freighter to wait for a gap. I was glad the shade was there because I had to wait about 45 minutes before I was able to safely cross. I landed at the crumbling boardwalk and prepared to walk into the city. I stashed the canoe in some tall weeds and my pack and valuables under a willow tree. With the empty water can on my back I walked over the levee and into downtown. I had a wonderful lunch while enjoying the A/C and recharging my computer. With the long lunch complete I walked to the riverside park and sat in the shade working on social media. It is 4 now and the early start is catching up with me, I am ready for bed but also super excited to paddle into and out of New Orleans tomorrow. 

Day 86

Up and paddling before the sun again today. The river grows wider and more busy with each passing mile. The shore on both banks is a nearly constant line of fleeted barges two to four rows deep. Smaller work tugs move about in a frenzy of activity piecing together the large barges for travel back up river. The chemical and petroleum plants no longer hide back from the banks but instead push right up to the rivers edge. Large ocean going freighters line the docks taking on coal and grain. Ships unable to load lay at anchor just off the main travel lanes of the river waiting their turn. Small work and supply boats cross cross the open areas carrying the crews and the food that makes everything possible. I try to paddle between the fleeted barges and the ships near the channels edge. The space is generally a couple of hundred yards wide. By paddling down the middle I try to give everyone space to work, be seen and stay out of the way. I keep the VHF radio scanning at all times, it in an information pipeline and entertainment. The pilots talk about work, women, football, food and everything in between. I can hear them as they spot me and it seems everyone knows I am coming long before I arrive. The constant movement keeps my head spinning and my mind distracted from the heat. There is one subject that keeps coming to my mind. Most people who claim to paddle the river skip the last 303 miles and exit through the Atchafalaya River. They say it is still a Source to Sea of the river because some of the water fro the Mississippi river is diverted that direction. Pushed for a better reasoning they use the excuse that Baton Rouge and New Orleans sections of the river are too dangerous and there is nothing good to see. I think these people are being deceptive or at the least disingenuous. Saying I did a Source to Sea implies you paddled from the river from start to the finish.  Asked how Baton Rouge or New Orleans were they will say they didn't pass through them, as if they were unaware they skipped 303 miles. Others say it is a matter of opinion I say it is a matter of scientific fact, we know beyond a doubt where the river starts and ends, your opinion may be otherwise but it doesn't change the facts. Enough about that. I finished the day on a small sand bar and pitched the tent under some willows. I had three cranes of a type I have never seen before that hung around the shade of the sand bar keeping a close eye on me and the gator that was lurking just off shore.

Day 85

When I woke for the um tenth time drenched in sweat I decided to get up an be productive despite the lack of decent light. I made quick work of bailing the rainwater from the canoe and was on the water before the sun was up. My hope was to try and cover my minimum mileage for the day before one when the sun was sure to be cranking up to a broil. The weather report called for a cooler first half the day because it was going to be partly cloudy. I laughed as I looked over a sweeping sky void of even a single cloud. Again I had the river to myself for the first part of the day passing only a couple of small tugs. Around noon my lower back started to hurt and when I reached under the seat I could feel my lucky fix to the seat and failed to last two full days. I paddled on glad to have the pain in my back to distract me from the heat and humidity. Around on I exhausted the last of my 5 liters of water and I paddled over to the shore. I grabbed some snacks, the big water can, the speaker and my phone making a dash across the searing sand for the shade of a cottonwood tree. After drinking a liter of water I sat in the shade, pouring sweat from my body. At some pint I decided the broken seat and direct sun were not so much worse than the shade and joined the now heavy ship and barge traffic. I slogged on for another two hours before reaching a bend in the river were I panned to make my camp for the night. The sand bar was packed with locals fishing and playing. The entire sandbar was a trash pile. Hundreds of bottles, cups and other trash on the sand, in the sand and being washed into the river. I paddled past the sand bar and around the bend. When I looked down river for then next six miles I saw only one tree in the entire stretch of the river. I paddled over and climbed into the small patch of shade. The ground was was not level, the bank was muddy but it would be home for the night. After I finished my nightly routine I climbed into the tent and sat motionless hoping not to start sweating again. When I was in the Mississippi delta a few weeks ago I said I don't think the devil comes here because it is too hot.  Hell is hot but I hear fire and brimstone not word about humidity. This heat doesn't cook you, the humidity and heat drains you and rots everything around you.  Without modern A/C everyday items begin to mold and rot away within days or weeks. A new book just a few days old starts to have mold on the pages, the cardboard stick on a q-tip goes limp, labels on cans sag and peel, deodorant goes soft, bar soap turns to goo and soft gel ibuprofen melts into a blob. Add in the bugs, snakes and gators and I start to wonder how anyone decided to settle here to start with. Long day but I dodged the rain and had a beautiful sunset.

Day 84

The sun came up over tiger stadium with a fierce heat this morning. I was dripping before I had the boat loaded. I slept well despite the fact the harbor was full of traffic all night. The large ships that had been taking grain on all night set off back down the river just before me. All the barge traffic cleared the channel to make way for the big ships and I paddled out right behind them. South of the city the river bank went back to large trees, muddy banks and wild appearances. I could see the water had gone up over a foot while I was sleeping last night. I found some good runs of current and no barge traffic allowing me to make some easy miles. As the miles rolled by the sun moved higher in the sky and began to try and force me into the shade. Just after noon I completed my fourth liter of water and paddled onto the ferry landing at Plaqueine. I was badly in need of drinking water so I walked over the levee and into town. I walked about a half mile to a taco bell and slumped into a chair trying and cool off. My weather app was reading a heat index of 107. I ordered a few tacos and drank 47 large Gatorades over the next hour. Feeling closer to human I walked over to a local meat market were they let me fill up the 6 gallon water jug. Based off the short walk back to the ferry landing I knew I could tolerate more than about 45 minutes in the direct sun on the open river. I sat and read for about an hour before I paddled off into the cloudless sky. I paddled a steady pace for 30 minutes and drank a liter of water, I repeated this twice more before finally spotting some shade.I was beat down by the heat and sun needing a serious break. It came in the form of a large line of storms clouds drifting up from the Gulf.  While I didn't get but a few rain drops I knew the storm was going to blow up soon. I paddled through a horseshoe shaped curve and was greeted by the sight of the storm dumping rain four miles up river. I set up camp and made dinner before being chased into the tent by another strong storm. I did get the chance to ring out and hang up my paddling pants and shirt. I and was glad it rained hard and long enough to rinse them with rain water. Many people say this part of the river is no good to paddle because of all of the industrial chemical plants. I paddled all day, past many huge factories but the tree lined banks blocked them almost completely from view. The large smoke stacks and docks were the only sign of the factories inland.