Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Day 61

Day 61
I woke early to a river blanketed in fog and a overcast sky. I could hear a barge just off shore but could not see it in the dense fog so I went back to sleep. I woke again just before 8 and quickly packed up camp and pushed off into the remaining fog. I was excited because today would mark my departure from the middle Mississippi River into the lower Mississippi starting at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. The first few hours I made good progress in the steady current and no winds, but by noon a stiff wind was blowing directly at me slowing my pace considerably. The headwind was the product of a cold front that was moving over the area and was predicted to bring rain. Sure enough just after noon as I approached the Ohio River a slow steady warm rain began to fall. I had hoped to climb a tower at the confluence of the rivers but the low clouds and rain had visibility down to half a mile so I paddled on into the meeting place of the two rivers. The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi is the worlds 4th largest confluence of rivers and created a large wide lake like area for 10 plus miles downstream. The waters fought against each other and current slowed down to a drag, the opposite of what I had hoped for. As I read the river mile sign showing mile 954 I had mixed feelings, the river mile makers had started at 1365 and had been counting down to zero for 60 days, now I was starting over at mile 954. 954 more miles till I reach pilot town and the Gulf of Mexico.  Just downstream I paddled out of Illinois and into Kentucky. The Kentucky bank was a high yellow bluff marking the entrance into a new state. The river here like many places has changed course over the years and a good sized chunk of Kentucky sits on the western bank of the river something I didn't know till today. There were barges and tow boats parked along both sides of the river for many miles downstream and I decided to tuck myself up next to the west bank and ride the good current created by the endless rows of parked barges. By this time my hands were really starting to bother me, the days of soft living and swimming on vacation had all but removed the calluses I had built up. The rain from before had made my skin wet and the days paddling was producing a new line of blisters on my palms. I decided to stop for a late lunch and pick up some liter while I was there. I found a huge variety of liter on this short sandbar, a soccer ball, a foot ball, a dodge ball, a flip flop, a hair brush, some rope, two medicine bottles, half a dozen unopened pack of butter and the normal selection of plastic drink bottles and Styrofoam. Adding all this to the 48 quart cooler and bag of other trash I picked up last night produced a large collection in the canoe. Back on the river  I switched from the double blade paddle to the traditional canoe paddle as I made my way along the line of barges. Several times I noticed barges I was approaching were starting their engines and preparing to move into the channel, so I informed them of my location using the radio to avoid any issues. Soon the wind picked up again and I could hear thunder in the distance, problem was the line of barges left me no place to reach the shore and make camp. The quick moving storm rolled across the river and darkened the sky just as I reached a floating dry dock and work camp along the bank. I pointed the canoe into a opening and was able to duck under a large catwalk leading from the bank just as the sky let loose. I waited under the catwalk for about an hour till the worst of the storm passed before paddling on in search of a campsite. I only had to travel a short distance before I found a decently flat spot of sand between two old barges. I quickly set up the tent and hauled everything into it as it started to rain again. I took a quick bath in the river as the rain beat down again, not the way I like to make camp but that's life on the river. Clean and dry in my tent I started a dinner of Knorr broccoli cheddar pasta and chicken meat. While the pasta soaked I thought about how much I really love being out here in the middle of nature, it has always brought me a peace and contentment I can find no where else. With only 937 miles remaining I guess I will start considering what my next long distance nature trip will be.

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