Day 27
The area we are in is having extreme heat like many other parts of the country. Last night I was up till after midnight because the heat index was still over 95. I slept poorly and we were up and moving by 6:15ish. One of our arch enemies the wind was blowing 10+ mph as we paddled away from camp. I was determined to make the best of the day and use the flooded areas off the river to beat the wind best we could and make 30 miles or more. We paddled hard for about 8 miles arriving at Lock 6 just as they opened the doors for us. Clearing the gates Shawn called the next route and we battled our way to the Lock 7. We arrived just as an up stream boat was pulling out and we paddled directly in without a pause. We pulled over for a snack and to decide what to do about a campsite or hotel in La Crosse WI just down stream of us. We saw 25 cent four minute showers at Goose Island Campground south of the city. We were filed with joy at the thought of a shower after paddling in the 103 heat index all afternoon. As we neared the city everyone with boat tried to run over us or each other making for stressful paddling. Shawn found an old canal that took us around much of the boat traffic. Returning to the river, there were a hundred plus boats racing about creating lots of random waves and making forward progress very hard. I checked the map and saw we still had several miles to go. I declared shower be dammed I am taking the first water free dirt I find as camp. We climbed the high bank and were able to see a nasty storm fast approaching. I set up my tent and took a quick river bath. Shawn and I watched as the hundreds of boats raced back to town ahead of the storm. What a mess the boat ramps must have been. As the storm moved in the winds blew 50+ mph and my $40 academy sports tent was nearly crushed. Only by holding the tent poles was I able to save it. The rain and hail poured from the sky as the storm moved past. It was the only time I have ever been scared while camping. I am settling in for the evening and hoping the second line of storms on the way are not as bad as the first. We had 30 miles.
Saturday, June 30, 2018
Day 26
Day 26
It’s lunch time as I start this days post. I am trying to get past a serious low point mentally. The last 6 days have been exhausting and zero fun. The river is a big flooded mess, half a mile wide and no where for the current to go. The water wants to go down channel but it can’t so it tries to go out to the sides but there is no room there ether. So it simply rolls, twists and runs up stream in places. The wind has also been blowing 10 to 20 upstream almost without stop. Days of making less than 2 mph having me questioning what I am doing, it seems like a complete waste of time and energy. I am forced to paddle non stop for hours on end, if I stop paddling for even a moment the canoe is spinning in a circle, running upstream with wind or being slammed into the shore. 12 hours or more of non stop labor results in about 25 miles when we should be making double that or better. After 3 and half hours of paddling this morning we stopped at a marina to rest our arms and I told Shawn I just cant see any logic in what we are doing and that I have not have one really enjoyable moment in 6 days. I was ready to take an extended break or quit but that is not how you finish a trip like this. I don't know if I did take a week break if the river level would drop enough to matter, I feel dammed if I do dammed if I don't. Shawn had some words of encouragement and a Face book post my sister Dana made both helped to steam the flow of negativity in my mind. We are waiting out the worst of the days heat here at the marina, I hope the second half of the day will be better. It is frustrating not to be able to do anything I want, at least in hiking I can always dig deep and push through no matter the conditions but that is not the case here.
We knocked out a few more miles after our break. We tired to rent a slip in a marina in Wianoa but again the people said no, we don't do that. I don't know if I am not using the right words but over and over people marina employees act completely confused when try to rent a boat slip, say no and we paddle on past row after row of empty boat slips. The highlight of the day was finding a tiny sandbar campsite. There was a family on a boat already beached there and they shared cold beer and fresh fruit with us.
Day 25
We slept about an hour later than normal this morning and let our tents dry somewhat before packing them away making for an 8:30 start time. We checked our map and and picked the end of a distant ridge as our target point for the end of Pippin Lake. We had a slight breeze in our faces and small chop on the waters surface. We paddled directly down the middle of the lake as hour after hour passed and the distant ridge failed to appear any closer. There sailboats and large pleasure boats running around the lake offering a distraction from the endless paddling. After about 4 and a half hours we were finally close enough to a point of land to take break but still 30 minutes short of the target ridge. The map revealed we had covered almost 12 miles without resting. Soon after reaching the ridge the Chippewa River entered the channel and current rejoined us for the first time all day. The weather was very hot and a few miles later we pulled into Wabasha MN and had a late lunch at Slippery’s Tavern, the place claimed to have something to do with the movie Grumpy Old Men. The food was the most disappointing we had had to date. After lunch we went to Hank’s Hardware and bought a few items we needed. Back on the water we passed a large Corps of Engineers dredge operation. They were removing sand from the channel and pumping it onto the shore creating a massive pile 50 plus feet tall and a quarter mile long. We reached Lock and Dam 4 around 4:30 and moved directly through. All 25 gates on the dam were fully open to allow the flood waters easy passage. We stopped below the dam at Aluna Wisconsin to refill our water supply. We used the hose outside of a building labeled Cross Tracks Liquor. The owner was very friendly and invited us inside. We were very confused when we entered because it was a beauty shop. She told us the liquor store was in a back room. We bought two very cold canned cokes and returned across the street to the city dock to drink them. We sat on the dock and told stories about cold canned cokes and fishing trips with our fathers. A quick look at google maps showed a massive sand island a few miles down stream and decided it should be above water for camping. On the way to the island we passed a track hoe on a barge digging sand from the river channel. We guessed the Corp of Engineers must hire contractors to dig out the trouble spots that are less than the 9 foot depth they try to keep. Arriving at the sand island we discovered it was grown up in trees but were still able to find a good campsite very quickly. It was blessing not to spend hours searching for dry land for the first time in weeks. I set up my tent and went for a swim and bath before dinner. We are hoping to see some fireworks somewhere over the next week as towns begin to celebrate the fourth of July.
Wednesday, June 27, 2018
Day 24
Day 24
The conditions for paddling were near perfect with no wind and smooth water with at least some current. We covered our first dozen miles to Lock and Dam 3 in good time. Shawn called the Lock Master and they had the outer doors open when we paddled up. The river is so high the gates on the dam were pulled up and water flowed through without a drop. The lock dropped us less than a foot and we paddled towards Red Wing a half dozen miles away. We stopped at the river front park for lunch and a resupply on water before pushing down stream. Next we entered Peppin Lake a 20 plus mile lake and paddled 6 miles across dead calm open water. It took some work to find what remained of a public beach to take a break on. The water was up to the parking lot and a large group of kids were playing at the ramp. We took a short break meeting a man and woman who were working as long term peers for a couple of troubled youth. The next few hours were spent in the frustrating search for a campsite. Everything we checked was underwater and everyone we asked said no. Finally Shawn's girlfriend found us a free place to stay at a campground down the lake. We arrived hot, tired and frustrated. A quick trip to the coin-op shower and a cold drink and all was well. 35 miles traveled and a great sunset to top it off.
The conditions for paddling were near perfect with no wind and smooth water with at least some current. We covered our first dozen miles to Lock and Dam 3 in good time. Shawn called the Lock Master and they had the outer doors open when we paddled up. The river is so high the gates on the dam were pulled up and water flowed through without a drop. The lock dropped us less than a foot and we paddled towards Red Wing a half dozen miles away. We stopped at the river front park for lunch and a resupply on water before pushing down stream. Next we entered Peppin Lake a 20 plus mile lake and paddled 6 miles across dead calm open water. It took some work to find what remained of a public beach to take a break on. The water was up to the parking lot and a large group of kids were playing at the ramp. We took a short break meeting a man and woman who were working as long term peers for a couple of troubled youth. The next few hours were spent in the frustrating search for a campsite. Everything we checked was underwater and everyone we asked said no. Finally Shawn's girlfriend found us a free place to stay at a campground down the lake. We arrived hot, tired and frustrated. A quick trip to the coin-op shower and a cold drink and all was well. 35 miles traveled and a great sunset to top it off.
Tuesday, June 26, 2018
Day 23
Day 23
After the storm from last night passed the day started with calm winds and smooth water. As I sat in the river waiting on Shawn the flame from the refineries gas flare created a mirror image on the smooth water. The first leg of the day was to make Lock and Dam 2 just above Hastings before the next round of storms. About an hour in the strong headwind moving with storm had us bent over and paddling a steady and determined course. The wide flood waters had worked to straighten the river for long sections allowing the wind to push up a steady progression of foot or larger waves. We would pick a point two miles away and paddling not directly into the wind but quartered into it. Taking the wind and row after row of waves against the front of the boat we moved constantly forward and to the side in the direction the wind was pushing. Reaching the far point and calm waters we would look at the map, pick our next point and head out for another two miles or so. After several slow hours we talked about how nice it was to be mentally and physically conditioned to travel in these conditions safely. The river was building our skills as it got larger.
As we approached Lock and Dam 2 I called the Lock Master on my handheld VHF, (Very High Frequency) radio to start the process. It played out something like this.
ME: Pleasure craft to Lock Master over
LOCK MASTER: Dam and Lock 2 go ahead Pleasure craft
ME: I have two southbound pleasure craft requesting to lock through
LOCK MASTER: I have some men working at the moment give us 20 minutes and we will have everything ready
ME: Roger we are going to shore to wait for instructions from you
15 min later
LOCK MASTER: Pleasure craft we are almost ready you can slowly make your way towards the lock, please wait for the green light to enter
ME: Roger moving that way
The large steel watertight doors slowly opened and the stop light ahead turned from red to green and we paddled into the lock. As soon as we entered a Corps of Engineers employee waved us towards the far end of the 600 foot lock. The water tight doors closed behind us and the required amount of water to match the river below was pumped out. The lock operator explained it was normally a 12 foot drop but because of high water it was on 18 inches today. After clearing the lock we paddled into Hastings just down stream as it started to sprinkle. We docked at the downtown waterfront park. We picked the Busted Nut as our lunch spot because it was already full. The beer and food was pleasant and we took our time waiting for the storm to move past. The strong storm we had been watching on radar all morning fell apart as it reached us, dropping only a few minutes of rain. Back on the water we paddled south past the extremely flooded St Croix river that had broken a dam upstream a week before. Shawn quickly voiced he was in favor of finding a spot to make camp and dry our wet gear. I readily agreed and soon found what remained of large flooded island on the Wisconsin side. We found a dry area on the very crest of the island and I spent 20 minutes with the machete hacking out a camp site just big enough for our tents. As I was setting up my tent I realized I had left my rain fly for my tent back at the last camp in my rush to get out. Luckily I had a spare tarp and it would do just fine as a rain fly.
We only covered 20 miles today but we only had one requirement for the day, get 15 miles south and out of Deputy Penny's county. Mission Accomplished!
After the storm from last night passed the day started with calm winds and smooth water. As I sat in the river waiting on Shawn the flame from the refineries gas flare created a mirror image on the smooth water. The first leg of the day was to make Lock and Dam 2 just above Hastings before the next round of storms. About an hour in the strong headwind moving with storm had us bent over and paddling a steady and determined course. The wide flood waters had worked to straighten the river for long sections allowing the wind to push up a steady progression of foot or larger waves. We would pick a point two miles away and paddling not directly into the wind but quartered into it. Taking the wind and row after row of waves against the front of the boat we moved constantly forward and to the side in the direction the wind was pushing. Reaching the far point and calm waters we would look at the map, pick our next point and head out for another two miles or so. After several slow hours we talked about how nice it was to be mentally and physically conditioned to travel in these conditions safely. The river was building our skills as it got larger.
As we approached Lock and Dam 2 I called the Lock Master on my handheld VHF, (Very High Frequency) radio to start the process. It played out something like this.
ME: Pleasure craft to Lock Master over
LOCK MASTER: Dam and Lock 2 go ahead Pleasure craft
ME: I have two southbound pleasure craft requesting to lock through
LOCK MASTER: I have some men working at the moment give us 20 minutes and we will have everything ready
ME: Roger we are going to shore to wait for instructions from you
15 min later
LOCK MASTER: Pleasure craft we are almost ready you can slowly make your way towards the lock, please wait for the green light to enter
ME: Roger moving that way
The large steel watertight doors slowly opened and the stop light ahead turned from red to green and we paddled into the lock. As soon as we entered a Corps of Engineers employee waved us towards the far end of the 600 foot lock. The water tight doors closed behind us and the required amount of water to match the river below was pumped out. The lock operator explained it was normally a 12 foot drop but because of high water it was on 18 inches today. After clearing the lock we paddled into Hastings just down stream as it started to sprinkle. We docked at the downtown waterfront park. We picked the Busted Nut as our lunch spot because it was already full. The beer and food was pleasant and we took our time waiting for the storm to move past. The strong storm we had been watching on radar all morning fell apart as it reached us, dropping only a few minutes of rain. Back on the water we paddled south past the extremely flooded St Croix river that had broken a dam upstream a week before. Shawn quickly voiced he was in favor of finding a spot to make camp and dry our wet gear. I readily agreed and soon found what remained of large flooded island on the Wisconsin side. We found a dry area on the very crest of the island and I spent 20 minutes with the machete hacking out a camp site just big enough for our tents. As I was setting up my tent I realized I had left my rain fly for my tent back at the last camp in my rush to get out. Luckily I had a spare tarp and it would do just fine as a rain fly.
We only covered 20 miles today but we only had one requirement for the day, get 15 miles south and out of Deputy Penny's county. Mission Accomplished!
Day 23 Super AM
Day 23 Super AM
Our day started at 1:30 AM when we were awaken by a loud voice asking us what we were doing? Figuring it was a law enforcement I gave the short answer and crawled from the tent with ID in hand as directed. We were meet with a kid of no more than 20 dressed like a cop looking for our ID and nothing more. He quickly took our IDs and headed towards his car, telling us to stay put. As he walked away we were greeted by another officer who asked us what we were doing camping in the park. We were prepared for this interaction as we had heard other paddlers were running into law enforcement as they were forced into parks and public spaces as the flood waters covered the normal camping spots. The second officer listened to our story and added some incorrect information about the river trying to see if we were lying about where we had been and what we were doing. Satisfied we were telling the truth, he said he understood and as far as he was concerned we could stay so long as we left in the morning but he was local police and the first officer was a sheriffs deputy. With thunder rolling and lightening flashing in the sky the first deputy returned and without listening to the situation he told us to pack up and leave now. I tried to inform him that is was water for miles and a storm was coming but he cut me off and said we had to leave now! I asked him for card because he was sending me into a very dangerous and potentially deadly situation with no lights and a serious storm rolling in and when my body was found they could ask him what happened. He gladly wrote down his badge number and name and handed it to me. Seeing there was no changing his mind I returned to my tent to start packing as the rain began to fall in sheets. Shawn turned to the city police officer and asked him where we could go and pulled up google maps to try and look for the area he was directing us to. The city officer was asking the sheriffs deputy for help in directing us to another spot and all he would say was the county line was 15 miles south. Realizing packing sleeping gear up was the most important thing to do since it was pouring rain by this time Shawn set to work packing up.
As we finished packing up the things on the inside of our tents the city police officer returned to say he had a deal for us. He said he completely understood our situation and that they would pretend they never saw us but that runners would be in the park at 5 AM and if he got a call we were still camped his hands would be tied. We thanked him for his understanding and compassion and assured him we would leave at first light. We quickly unpacked again and settled in to sleep with the sound of rain hammering our tents. After the city police officers left we were summoned to the tent window by the sheriff deputy. He started a long whining rant about how the park, up to the pavilion we were next to, was his jurisdiction and the city had jurisdiction over the area we were in, He was visibly upset, lip quivering and on the verge of crying, he talked poorly about the local police over riding his judgment. He made it clear we were very lucky and again told us not to stop again tomorrow till we were past his county line 15 miles south. I thanked him for his service and bid him a good night. I quickly fell asleep for about an hour and a half till the unseen sprinkler head beside my head popped up and began to assault the floor of my tent. What a wonderful start to the day.
Our day started at 1:30 AM when we were awaken by a loud voice asking us what we were doing? Figuring it was a law enforcement I gave the short answer and crawled from the tent with ID in hand as directed. We were meet with a kid of no more than 20 dressed like a cop looking for our ID and nothing more. He quickly took our IDs and headed towards his car, telling us to stay put. As he walked away we were greeted by another officer who asked us what we were doing camping in the park. We were prepared for this interaction as we had heard other paddlers were running into law enforcement as they were forced into parks and public spaces as the flood waters covered the normal camping spots. The second officer listened to our story and added some incorrect information about the river trying to see if we were lying about where we had been and what we were doing. Satisfied we were telling the truth, he said he understood and as far as he was concerned we could stay so long as we left in the morning but he was local police and the first officer was a sheriffs deputy. With thunder rolling and lightening flashing in the sky the first deputy returned and without listening to the situation he told us to pack up and leave now. I tried to inform him that is was water for miles and a storm was coming but he cut me off and said we had to leave now! I asked him for card because he was sending me into a very dangerous and potentially deadly situation with no lights and a serious storm rolling in and when my body was found they could ask him what happened. He gladly wrote down his badge number and name and handed it to me. Seeing there was no changing his mind I returned to my tent to start packing as the rain began to fall in sheets. Shawn turned to the city police officer and asked him where we could go and pulled up google maps to try and look for the area he was directing us to. The city officer was asking the sheriffs deputy for help in directing us to another spot and all he would say was the county line was 15 miles south. Realizing packing sleeping gear up was the most important thing to do since it was pouring rain by this time Shawn set to work packing up.
As we finished packing up the things on the inside of our tents the city police officer returned to say he had a deal for us. He said he completely understood our situation and that they would pretend they never saw us but that runners would be in the park at 5 AM and if he got a call we were still camped his hands would be tied. We thanked him for his understanding and compassion and assured him we would leave at first light. We quickly unpacked again and settled in to sleep with the sound of rain hammering our tents. After the city police officers left we were summoned to the tent window by the sheriff deputy. He started a long whining rant about how the park, up to the pavilion we were next to, was his jurisdiction and the city had jurisdiction over the area we were in, He was visibly upset, lip quivering and on the verge of crying, he talked poorly about the local police over riding his judgment. He made it clear we were very lucky and again told us not to stop again tomorrow till we were past his county line 15 miles south. I thanked him for his service and bid him a good night. I quickly fell asleep for about an hour and a half till the unseen sprinkler head beside my head popped up and began to assault the floor of my tent. What a wonderful start to the day.
Monday, June 25, 2018
Day 22
Day 22
Having gone to sleep way to early last night I woke up early but full of energy. I showered again and hit the streets to buy my food resupply and hopefully add a chair to my gear list since I no longer had to portage all my gear. The morning quickly slipped by and at 11 the Uber dropped us off at the park were the boats were stored. We made short work of repacking the boats and shoving off. We were both glad to be leaving the busy, loud city behind us. Little did we know we wouldn't be seeing the wilds today. After 5 miles we came to Lock and Dam 1, I quickly contacted the lock master by radio requesting to lock south. After about 10 minutes the large steel doors opened and we paddled in. We grabbed hold of ropes hanging from the lock walls and soon the water level was dropping. It only took about 5 minutes to drop about 15 feet and the steel doors on the other end opened. We paddled out, proud to have completed the first of 26 locks and dams. After only a couple miles we were hit with a 10 to 15 mph head wind and progress slowed to a crawl. Ahead we could see the city of St. Cloud and first of many barges moored along the river bank. Quickly we had our first meeting with a barge, it was a large party type barge with a tug boat pushing it against the heavy current. After it passed we tossed in the large waves it made and continued south. We paddled under a dozen bridges and looked up at the many high rise buildings of downtown.
Past downtown we paddled along row after row of large steel barges. Many were empty and towered over us at 20 feet high, making us realize we were now small boats in quickly growing river. As we progressed the wind continued to build in strength and made controlling my canoe very difficult. After passing through town we agreed paddling at less than a mile an hour was a waste and began to look for a camp site. The river was now lined with industrially plants of all types. The air smelled of steel, dog food, fuel oil and other unpleasant things. The high water had everything flooded including the places we wanted to camp. Shawn spotted a marina on the map and we pulled into its protected waters. On the far end of the marina we found the Mississippi bar. We went inside and ordered burgers and enjoyed watching the happy hour crowd drinking away another Monday. After eating the best burgers of the trip we discovered a small town park next door. The city of Inver Groove had taken and old railroad bridge and created a pier and park. We set up camp under the pavilion and washed up in the rest rooms before settling in for the night. We are both very tired and I don't think the noise of the refinery across the river will keep us up. Despite a very late start and high winds we covered almost 25 miles.
Having gone to sleep way to early last night I woke up early but full of energy. I showered again and hit the streets to buy my food resupply and hopefully add a chair to my gear list since I no longer had to portage all my gear. The morning quickly slipped by and at 11 the Uber dropped us off at the park were the boats were stored. We made short work of repacking the boats and shoving off. We were both glad to be leaving the busy, loud city behind us. Little did we know we wouldn't be seeing the wilds today. After 5 miles we came to Lock and Dam 1, I quickly contacted the lock master by radio requesting to lock south. After about 10 minutes the large steel doors opened and we paddled in. We grabbed hold of ropes hanging from the lock walls and soon the water level was dropping. It only took about 5 minutes to drop about 15 feet and the steel doors on the other end opened. We paddled out, proud to have completed the first of 26 locks and dams. After only a couple miles we were hit with a 10 to 15 mph head wind and progress slowed to a crawl. Ahead we could see the city of St. Cloud and first of many barges moored along the river bank. Quickly we had our first meeting with a barge, it was a large party type barge with a tug boat pushing it against the heavy current. After it passed we tossed in the large waves it made and continued south. We paddled under a dozen bridges and looked up at the many high rise buildings of downtown.
Past downtown we paddled along row after row of large steel barges. Many were empty and towered over us at 20 feet high, making us realize we were now small boats in quickly growing river. As we progressed the wind continued to build in strength and made controlling my canoe very difficult. After passing through town we agreed paddling at less than a mile an hour was a waste and began to look for a camp site. The river was now lined with industrially plants of all types. The air smelled of steel, dog food, fuel oil and other unpleasant things. The high water had everything flooded including the places we wanted to camp. Shawn spotted a marina on the map and we pulled into its protected waters. On the far end of the marina we found the Mississippi bar. We went inside and ordered burgers and enjoyed watching the happy hour crowd drinking away another Monday. After eating the best burgers of the trip we discovered a small town park next door. The city of Inver Groove had taken and old railroad bridge and created a pier and park. We set up camp under the pavilion and washed up in the rest rooms before settling in for the night. We are both very tired and I don't think the noise of the refinery across the river will keep us up. Despite a very late start and high winds we covered almost 25 miles.
Day 21
We slept in till 8 because we only had 5 miles to paddle before we meet Rob who would take us past the falls and to our hotel. As we paddled towards the boat ramp we thought we might see some local fisherman getting ready for a day on the water. We could not have been more wrong! We pulled up to several hundred men in to-to's and running gear. We had landed smack in the middle of a gay pride 5K. We watched them set off on their run and soon Ken arrived. We laughed and joked at what a sight he had just missed. We took the boats down stream to a city kayak rack and locked them up. Ken then took us the hotel and we stashed our gear in closet while the rooms were being readied. We left the hotel headed to a local bar The Bulldog, we had been told had good beer and burgers. As we got closer more and more crazy dressed people were walking same direction as us. I don't have problem with anyone or a fun parade but turning the corner to the bar we were slap in the middle of the gay pride parade. Normally I would not be phased by this but after 21 days in the wilds this was a shock to my system. We quickly ducked in the bar and climbed into a back corner booth. We had a great lunch and local beers before heading back thru the craziness and to the hotel. I had grand plans of what I was going to do after my shower and pizza. My plans ended with me sound asleep after my pizza and laundry were finished, so much for updating the blog and shopping.
Day 20
Day 20
By this time we were both tired and smelling not so grand but today would be our last portage and we would be in Minneapolis at long last. We had hotel reservation downtown the next day and it was all the motivation we needed to get an early start. We cruised along at a great speed knocking out 25 miles by 10:30. Up to this point we had seen less than a dozen boats on the river and none were driving fast. As we neared the city we ran into many pleasure boats zipping along at full speed and several times we were almost run over. We hugged the banks and enjoyed looking at all the big houses and boats along the banks. At 40 miles we came to our last dam we had to portage. It was a easy 100 yards down and around. After finishing we laughed that after 14 portages we finally perfected it on the last one. The dam area was full of hundreds of people enjoying the day and not one person asked what we were doing or said hello, we were in the big city for sure. We paddled down stream from the dam and saw the sky scrapers ahead. We found our first island sandbar and made camp. We were meeting another river angel in the morning for a ride around some falls in town.
By this time we were both tired and smelling not so grand but today would be our last portage and we would be in Minneapolis at long last. We had hotel reservation downtown the next day and it was all the motivation we needed to get an early start. We cruised along at a great speed knocking out 25 miles by 10:30. Up to this point we had seen less than a dozen boats on the river and none were driving fast. As we neared the city we ran into many pleasure boats zipping along at full speed and several times we were almost run over. We hugged the banks and enjoyed looking at all the big houses and boats along the banks. At 40 miles we came to our last dam we had to portage. It was a easy 100 yards down and around. After finishing we laughed that after 14 portages we finally perfected it on the last one. The dam area was full of hundreds of people enjoying the day and not one person asked what we were doing or said hello, we were in the big city for sure. We paddled down stream from the dam and saw the sky scrapers ahead. We found our first island sandbar and made camp. We were meeting another river angel in the morning for a ride around some falls in town.
Day 19
Day 19
We started the day early knowing we had 20 plus miles to cover before we meet up with Ken, who had promised to help us around the days two dams. The river had good current for the first 10 miles but quickly slowed as the dam ahead forced the river to climb the banks and form a lake of sorts. About 10 I tried to call Ken and received no answer. We paddled along looking at all the nice homes and enjoying the quiet on the lake. Suddenly the sound of someone yelling and swearing was assaulting our ears. As we got closer I could see a man screaming into his phone, annoyed I shouted to keep it down the phone is two inches from your face. The angry man shouted F- you but quit yelling after. When we were about 30 minutes from the dam I called Ken again and he told me sorry he couldn't help he had gone fishing with a friend. Arriving at Sartel Dam we were shocked to see the huge rush of water and waves rushing downstream, the high water put in was unusable as 5 foot waves crashed into the bank and the river was hemmed in by high bluffs further down stream. We quickly got on our phones and found a local kayak rental and guide service. I called the number and explained we needed a portage around Sartel and St. Cloud dams. The man seemed confused and said he couldn't help us. Within minutes the man called back saying he would portage us for 20 dollars each, we agreed. When he showed up he had a homemade tiny trailer and half a dozen cheap kayaks. The trailer would only hold Shawn's kayak and my canoe was strapped to the top of his truck. When we got inside he refused to drive until he received the $40. After driving a few miles our "guide" told us he hoped he could find the boat ramp because he did not know where it was. He soon pulled up to a locked gate and asked a local where the ramp was, the gentleman told us he would drive over and we could follow. After reaching the ramp I noticed the helpful man was listening to a police scanner and carrying a pistol, I was slightly alarmed but not worried. As we were unloading the boats a police boat came running up river and the helpful gentleman started signaling for him to come over. I started to panic as I thought we were caught up in some type of sting operation. Luckily the man just wanted the officer to watch over us as we started into rough water. As quickly as we could we loaded and pushed off downstream.
Away from the drama of town Shawn told me the guide had been the same man who was screaming and cussing from the shore that morning. He had mentioned he saw us paddling by and his clothing matched up, Minnesota towns were turning out to be a freak show. We talked about how we forgot to eat lunch or get me a food resupply in our rush to get away from the "guide". Shawn was looking at his phone and said their is a McDonald's up here on the right. Thinking he was playing a joke I went along. He directed me up a backwater and into the flooded woods. Paddling a short distance he point to a trail on the bank and said we can walk up there to the store and McDonald's. Realizing he was serious or crazy I played along. We tied up the boats and climbed a wooded bank, we came out behind an apartment complex with a McDonald's and truck stop across the street. We had a burger for lunch and I bought a few food items to get me through the next two days.
Back in the boats we paddled on towards Clear Water Outfitters, a paddling outfitter located along the river. We found their landing and made our way into the store. We wondered about for several minutes with no staff in sight. Soon enough a pretty young lady with long pig tails and a welcoming smile greeted us. She helped me find a few things and we shared a conversation about North Carolina where she had just moved from and I do lots of hiking. I really enjoyed talking about something other than the river with someone other than Shawn. Don't get me wrong I enjoy Shawn's company but after 20 days a different voice and a pretty face are a welcome change. We pushed down river and camped on an island, enjoying a beautiful sunset. We made 48 miles that day.
We started the day early knowing we had 20 plus miles to cover before we meet up with Ken, who had promised to help us around the days two dams. The river had good current for the first 10 miles but quickly slowed as the dam ahead forced the river to climb the banks and form a lake of sorts. About 10 I tried to call Ken and received no answer. We paddled along looking at all the nice homes and enjoying the quiet on the lake. Suddenly the sound of someone yelling and swearing was assaulting our ears. As we got closer I could see a man screaming into his phone, annoyed I shouted to keep it down the phone is two inches from your face. The angry man shouted F- you but quit yelling after. When we were about 30 minutes from the dam I called Ken again and he told me sorry he couldn't help he had gone fishing with a friend. Arriving at Sartel Dam we were shocked to see the huge rush of water and waves rushing downstream, the high water put in was unusable as 5 foot waves crashed into the bank and the river was hemmed in by high bluffs further down stream. We quickly got on our phones and found a local kayak rental and guide service. I called the number and explained we needed a portage around Sartel and St. Cloud dams. The man seemed confused and said he couldn't help us. Within minutes the man called back saying he would portage us for 20 dollars each, we agreed. When he showed up he had a homemade tiny trailer and half a dozen cheap kayaks. The trailer would only hold Shawn's kayak and my canoe was strapped to the top of his truck. When we got inside he refused to drive until he received the $40. After driving a few miles our "guide" told us he hoped he could find the boat ramp because he did not know where it was. He soon pulled up to a locked gate and asked a local where the ramp was, the gentleman told us he would drive over and we could follow. After reaching the ramp I noticed the helpful man was listening to a police scanner and carrying a pistol, I was slightly alarmed but not worried. As we were unloading the boats a police boat came running up river and the helpful gentleman started signaling for him to come over. I started to panic as I thought we were caught up in some type of sting operation. Luckily the man just wanted the officer to watch over us as we started into rough water. As quickly as we could we loaded and pushed off downstream.
Away from the drama of town Shawn told me the guide had been the same man who was screaming and cussing from the shore that morning. He had mentioned he saw us paddling by and his clothing matched up, Minnesota towns were turning out to be a freak show. We talked about how we forgot to eat lunch or get me a food resupply in our rush to get away from the "guide". Shawn was looking at his phone and said their is a McDonald's up here on the right. Thinking he was playing a joke I went along. He directed me up a backwater and into the flooded woods. Paddling a short distance he point to a trail on the bank and said we can walk up there to the store and McDonald's. Realizing he was serious or crazy I played along. We tied up the boats and climbed a wooded bank, we came out behind an apartment complex with a McDonald's and truck stop across the street. We had a burger for lunch and I bought a few food items to get me through the next two days.
Back in the boats we paddled on towards Clear Water Outfitters, a paddling outfitter located along the river. We found their landing and made our way into the store. We wondered about for several minutes with no staff in sight. Soon enough a pretty young lady with long pig tails and a welcoming smile greeted us. She helped me find a few things and we shared a conversation about North Carolina where she had just moved from and I do lots of hiking. I really enjoyed talking about something other than the river with someone other than Shawn. Don't get me wrong I enjoy Shawn's company but after 20 days a different voice and a pretty face are a welcome change. We pushed down river and camped on an island, enjoying a beautiful sunset. We made 48 miles that day.
Thursday, June 21, 2018
Day 18
Day 18
We woke to another increase in the river level and current for the 6th day in a row. We were aiming for another 30+ mile day and at least one more portage. Crow Wing State Park is located across the river from Fort Ripley Military Reservation. As we paddled in the quiet of the early morning we could hear various weapons being fired across the river. Shawn a Marine Vet and I am a Army Infantryman Vet, so we took turns guessing what weapons systems we heard firing. Between the steady conversation and paddling we were amazed we covered 10 miles in 1.5 hours. The current was really moving. The river channel was constantly splitting around various islands, channeling the current and quickening our pace. In just over 4 hours we had covered 20 plus miles and could see the formidable Little Falls Dam. We had heard from Joe, who is about 50 miles in front of us, that the water below was rough. After docking the boats at the start of the portage trail I went to see how the water looked. The water was rushing from most of the gates creating a mass of foaming, tossing, rolling and crashing waves for 100 years downstream. The current continued to boil, swirl and run in cross currents for a half mile more. I unloaded my canoe in two trips had everything stacked 150 yards downstream. Since I had a clear path of sand and grass I drug the canoe rather than carry it. Shawn was lucky enough for have a dam employee drive his gear down below the dam while he rolled his kayak on a set of portage wheels. After the boats were reloaded we walked to the Great Wall Chinese restaurant for the lunch buffet.
Returning to the boats we relaxed in the shade for an hour while we studied the raging waters below. Shawn said he was ready and quickly shoved off into the rough water, a counter current quickly grabbed his front end and he was at the mercy of the current. After a few seconds of panic he managed to paddle along the shore to a down stream current. I took my canoes front rope and walked it down the bank about 50 yards and pushed into the downstream current. Reunited a mile downstream we laughed at the boost of adrenaline we had gotten. The next section of water was 10 miles long and ended with Blanchard Dam, an even larger dam. The area between the dams was a large lake with no current. We slowly paddled and talked about trying to find someone to drive us around the dam because it was a 1000 yard portage. We soon landed at boat ramp just upstream from the dam. There was no one around so I started to walk up the road to check out our surroundings. I found the ravel road was an access road for the boat ramp only and looking into the distance could see spray from the dam rising 40 feet into the air. After about 30 minutes several trucks with boats arrived and Shawn approached one telling them of our situation and asking for a ride. Prospects did not look good. As the gentleman was launching his boat he said to load our boats on his trailer and he would drive us around. We quickly loaded our boats and gear and we were headed towards the downstream boat ramp. The ramp was only about a mile away and we quickly told our story before the nice man dropped us off and was gone. We had taken the time to thank him but never caught his name, just another kind River Angel. We ended our day at Royalton Sportman's Campground campground with 37 miles traveled.
Day 17
Day 17
Another beautiful day as we paddled down the river towards Brainard and the Potlatch Dam. We each had a list of things to purchase in town after the portage around the dam. The water level and current continued to increase as each creek and river meeting the river as running at flood stage. Before noon we arrived at the dam and completed the short portage around. We had some difficulty finding a place to hide the boats as the water level was up to or above the trees lining the banks. We finally found a city fishing pier and secured the boats and gear with a steel cable I carry for just such times. Our first stop was the local post office to pick up a shot Shawn needed to take. I could tell Shawn was hurting on the short walk to the Post Office and was happy to see the relief on his face as he took his shot. We found a Mexican restaurant only a few blocks away for lunch. Over lunch we talked about the uneasy feeling we were getting from the locals, as we walked down the street no one would look us in the eye or speak when we greeted them. After lunch we decided to we both felt that getting back on the water was better than another moment in this town.
Back on the water we alternated between drifting, paddling and trying to decide where to camp for the night. The map showed Crow Wing State Park about 12 miles down stream. As we approached the state park we discovered that again the map was not correct and no camping was available on the water. We stopped at the boat ramp and talked to a couple from the area. They told us that down stream we could find camping and water. Back in the boats we went for another mile before finding another landing. Her we found water, a group meeting building with power to recharge phones and a picnic area (no camping). We decided we would swim and hang out till near dark, then we would set up tents and be gone first thing in the morning. While making dinner a gentleman named Ken stopped to talk. He asked all about our trip and He and Shawn discovered they had both triple bi pass with the last 6 months. Ken lives downstream in Sartell above St Cloud and offered to portage us around the 2 dams there when we made it. We gladly exchanged numbers and Ken set off towards his camper. Shawn and I were talking about what an awesome piece of river magic this was when Ken returned with fried chicken and beer for us. After Ken left the second time we were super excited to discover we were only 135 miles from the Twin Cities. We had only been taking things day to day and saving our first night in a real bed till we reached the Twin Cities. I went to bed with visions of a hotel bed and aTwins game in my head.
Another beautiful day as we paddled down the river towards Brainard and the Potlatch Dam. We each had a list of things to purchase in town after the portage around the dam. The water level and current continued to increase as each creek and river meeting the river as running at flood stage. Before noon we arrived at the dam and completed the short portage around. We had some difficulty finding a place to hide the boats as the water level was up to or above the trees lining the banks. We finally found a city fishing pier and secured the boats and gear with a steel cable I carry for just such times. Our first stop was the local post office to pick up a shot Shawn needed to take. I could tell Shawn was hurting on the short walk to the Post Office and was happy to see the relief on his face as he took his shot. We found a Mexican restaurant only a few blocks away for lunch. Over lunch we talked about the uneasy feeling we were getting from the locals, as we walked down the street no one would look us in the eye or speak when we greeted them. After lunch we decided to we both felt that getting back on the water was better than another moment in this town.
Back on the water we alternated between drifting, paddling and trying to decide where to camp for the night. The map showed Crow Wing State Park about 12 miles down stream. As we approached the state park we discovered that again the map was not correct and no camping was available on the water. We stopped at the boat ramp and talked to a couple from the area. They told us that down stream we could find camping and water. Back in the boats we went for another mile before finding another landing. Her we found water, a group meeting building with power to recharge phones and a picnic area (no camping). We decided we would swim and hang out till near dark, then we would set up tents and be gone first thing in the morning. While making dinner a gentleman named Ken stopped to talk. He asked all about our trip and He and Shawn discovered they had both triple bi pass with the last 6 months. Ken lives downstream in Sartell above St Cloud and offered to portage us around the 2 dams there when we made it. We gladly exchanged numbers and Ken set off towards his camper. Shawn and I were talking about what an awesome piece of river magic this was when Ken returned with fried chicken and beer for us. After Ken left the second time we were super excited to discover we were only 135 miles from the Twin Cities. We had only been taking things day to day and saving our first night in a real bed till we reached the Twin Cities. I went to bed with visions of a hotel bed and aTwins game in my head.
Day 16
Day 16
With three days of easy town living in a row we were eager to paddle back into more remote places. At 6 we set off down the sickly Mississippi river channel leading 15 miles back to the Aikien Diversion channel and other half of the rivers water. The water was smooth as glass and provided a mirror image of the shore line and silver sky's above. The usual deer stood munching on the grass as we paddled past small riverfront cabins and campers. The sediment filled waters were still rising and lazily rolled and boiled like a huge ribbon of chocolate milk. Just before the seperted waters were reunited we stopped at a beautiful but abandoned homestead on a bluff above the waters. The site was dominated by a large two story barn, surrounded by an old hen house, several granaries, a shed or two and the crumbing remains of a home. We poked our heads into broken windows inspecting the remains of another life and time. Wooden spooked car rims, a massive wood burning stove with a 8 eyes and two large ovens, rusting steel cans that ounce held auto lubricants, fresh ground coffee and livestock medicines. It was nice to stand under the shade of the cottonwoods and think of a happy family living a simple life here.
As the two currents of the river were rejoined they boiled and fought against one another, forcing the banks back to the widest we had yet seen. Just as quickly the land and trees on the riverbanks became to change, the towering silver maples and low banks gave way to oak, pine and cottonwood packed hills. With the winds to our backs and surging currents below we quickly moved into the heart of the Waukenabo State Forest. Our friends the eagles and Ospreys were often perched in the tree tops as we moved down stream. Shortly after 1 we realized we would make our 39 miles goal with plenty of time to spare so we slowed to little more than a drift. While we enjoy our time at camp each evening we have discovered that taking time to slow down and take it all in makes the transition to shore a much more enjoyable one. We were aiming for a another Department of Natural Resources boat access only campsite and were happy and confused the sign show camp 300 yards. Having never seen such a sign I asked Shawn what he thought? He laughed and said it was upstream behind us because that how laughable these sites have been. I guess he was correct because we carefully scanned the river banks and never saw Half Moon campsite. Luckily we found Half Moon boat landing a half mile downstream. We set up camp, bathed in the river and I built a small fire while Shawn did an phone interview for the TV station back home. Shawn produced a canned ham that I warmed near the fire and shortly after eating a rain cloud chased us into our tents for the night.
Monday, June 18, 2018
Day 15
Having done some very heavy napping yesterday we were up on and on the water by 6:30. The river had come up several more feet over night. The VHF radio rattled off a long list of places all over Minnesota and Wisconsin that were under a flood warning. Some places north of us had received 8 to 12 inches of rain the day before. The river was running high and fast, we were making 6 miles per hour and only paddling with half effort. The sky was clear and blue with almost no wind. The goal of 31 miles for the day looked easy enough. The landscape was still a mix of silver maples and cleared hay fields. The deer were out in force after hunkering down from the weather the day before. Our map showed a low head or wall dam ahead that was placed in the river to keep the river from changing course and divert water flows over 8 feet in a canal the river wanted to take naturally. We could hear the roar of the water well before we arrived at the split in the canal. We paddled past the dam and climbed up the bank to see the high water flow ragging over the dam and down the canal.
The last 8 miles to town were nothing like the easy swift current miles we had already covered. The canal had stolen all the extra current and we settled in for a slow paddle to town. The river here looked much like it had a 100 miles before, narrow and slow. As we began to approach town we saw more barns and old homesteads, soon the town of Aikien park was in view. We tucked the boats in the high grass and made our way to town for a late lunch. Returning to camp we meet Todd a nice guy who rides his bicycle down to the Gulf Coast each winter. He gave us tips on places to camp and shower down river. Todd had many interesting stories and as we later found out he makes it a point to greet any paddler in the park. We are waiting for a pizza to be delivered now, after it will be time for a hot shower. Life is rough on the river!
Day 14
Day 14
Yesterday we had already decided we would take a zero day (zero miles paddled) due to more bad weather on the way. Knowing I would not have to paddle in the morning, the night before I walked over to the local watering hole after I finished updating my blog. As I walked in the door I was greeted by a few dozen locals who were having a good time enjoying drinks and the juke box. At first I was greeted with suspicious glances and little else. It took me a few minutes to order a drink and start a tab. I was relieved to see they carried a bourbon, Makers Mark, not my favorite but better than the Canadian whiskey that was available everywhere else. A friendly lady quickly asked who I was and more to the point why was I talking so funny. I told her I was paddling the river and was from Mississippi. The rest of the crowd was soon calling me Mississippi and escorted me outside for an in depth inquisition. Spent the next hour answering questions as quick as they could fire them off. After a few drinks a couple of the guys decided they needed to take me for a ride to see something. Normally I wouldn't jump into a truck with total strangers for a ride to the unknown but good bourbon has a way of blurring the lines between good and bad ideas. After a short ride we pulled up in front of fort made of logs. The front gate was quickly opened and I found myself inside a recreation of an early American fort. The compound was a square measuring about 150 paces on each side, walls were 15 feet high and made of pine logs sharpened to a point with a covered tower on each corner. The inside had a blacksmith shop, store, bar and other buildings built onto the walls. The guys explained a group of Vietnam veterans had built the fort after the war and started a group called the mountain men. I must say it was not like anything I had ever seen before. With more storms moving in they dropped me back at the campground.
The next day we slept late and woke to sunny skies but the sound of thunder could be heard to both the north and south. Around noon I walked into town for a burger, in the few minutes it took to get there the sky turned dark and the wind began to howl. Within minutes violent winds kicked up and hail the size of golf balls began drop, followed by swirling winds and driving rain. Suddenly the power went out and the rain ended. As I walked back towards camp the town was littered with downed trees and debris. I was congratulated by a local for surviving a tornado. I arrived at camp to find our tents safe under the pavilion. The rest of the day I spent reading and napping while thunderstorms dumped large amounts of rain. The river level was climbing all day and a swift current promised a swift trip to the next town Aitkin.
Yesterday we had already decided we would take a zero day (zero miles paddled) due to more bad weather on the way. Knowing I would not have to paddle in the morning, the night before I walked over to the local watering hole after I finished updating my blog. As I walked in the door I was greeted by a few dozen locals who were having a good time enjoying drinks and the juke box. At first I was greeted with suspicious glances and little else. It took me a few minutes to order a drink and start a tab. I was relieved to see they carried a bourbon, Makers Mark, not my favorite but better than the Canadian whiskey that was available everywhere else. A friendly lady quickly asked who I was and more to the point why was I talking so funny. I told her I was paddling the river and was from Mississippi. The rest of the crowd was soon calling me Mississippi and escorted me outside for an in depth inquisition. Spent the next hour answering questions as quick as they could fire them off. After a few drinks a couple of the guys decided they needed to take me for a ride to see something. Normally I wouldn't jump into a truck with total strangers for a ride to the unknown but good bourbon has a way of blurring the lines between good and bad ideas. After a short ride we pulled up in front of fort made of logs. The front gate was quickly opened and I found myself inside a recreation of an early American fort. The compound was a square measuring about 150 paces on each side, walls were 15 feet high and made of pine logs sharpened to a point with a covered tower on each corner. The inside had a blacksmith shop, store, bar and other buildings built onto the walls. The guys explained a group of Vietnam veterans had built the fort after the war and started a group called the mountain men. I must say it was not like anything I had ever seen before. With more storms moving in they dropped me back at the campground.
The next day we slept late and woke to sunny skies but the sound of thunder could be heard to both the north and south. Around noon I walked into town for a burger, in the few minutes it took to get there the sky turned dark and the wind began to howl. Within minutes violent winds kicked up and hail the size of golf balls began drop, followed by swirling winds and driving rain. Suddenly the power went out and the rain ended. As I walked back towards camp the town was littered with downed trees and debris. I was congratulated by a local for surviving a tornado. I arrived at camp to find our tents safe under the pavilion. The rest of the day I spent reading and napping while thunderstorms dumped large amounts of rain. The river level was climbing all day and a swift current promised a swift trip to the next town Aitkin.
Saturday, June 16, 2018
Day 13
Day 13
We woke early this morning planning to try and make the town of Palisades before the next round of storms were on us. We knew from talking with Joe that the town had a nice campground with showers and a few places to eat as well. There was hardly a breath of wind and we paddled at a unhurried pace. The day before the Sandy river had joined the river and added a large amount of water and current. I let Shawn get about a quarter mile a head of me hoping we would both get to see some wildlife along the way. The coming storm added a strange energy to the air and neither us nor the resident wildlife seemed to be in any hurry. We both saw lots of deer taking a morning dip as we quietly slipped along. I had been wanting to have a close up moment with a Bald Eagle but so far all of them flew away long before I got close. I don't know if it was the coming storm or if he was just lazy but Shawn paddled past an eagle perched high in a dead tree. I eased along and was able to drift directly under him. At one point he was looking at me strangely from between his large talons. I took many pictures but was disappointed to see none were good due to moisture on the lens. In record time we covered the 10 miles to town.
Again with only moments to spare we set up tents under the pavilion at the park. We took turns showering and rushed to the cafe for late breakfast. After breakfast Shawn took a nap while I checked out the town, all 4 blocks by 4 blocks. The campground in town also has a ATV/snowmobile trail constructed on an old rail line. I have seen these in the far northeast and they provide a great attraction to the towns they pass through. For dinner we visited the Rustic Trail a local restaurant and watering hole. Before we ordered we were told the first beer was on the house if we signed the paddler log book. I was happy to see another familiar tradition from my AT hiking days. We both enjoyed reading the entries from paddlers we had followed over the last year on Facebook. We ordered the prime rib and left stuffed and happy. On the walk back we visited the mini library and mini food bank. We each took a small item or two of food back to camp with us. Palisades is a great river town with a good short term resupply, warm showers and super friendly people who wanted to hear all about our trip. With more bad weather including flash floods and tornadoes forecast for the night we are staying put under the pavilion. Tomorrow is also forecast to be nasty but if we can can we will head a few miles down river as we need to make a town 85 miles away in a few days so Shawn can pick up a shot that is being shipped to him.
Day 12
Day 12
While we slept a small line of rain passed over but not the larger front we had been hearing about for the last few days. Joe and I were on the water early, battling the wind and watching the darkening sky. We made steady progress for almost 3 hours before the winds began to swirl and the skys darkened. Shawn and I tried to make a quick check of the radar while the winds pushed our boats up and down the river. With no cell service we put to shore at carry in access point and threw up the tents just moments before the rolling thunder and rain were on us. I had a few snacks and was soon napping soundly despite the high winds, rain and crack nearby of lightening. After what seemed like only a few moments I was awakened by Shawn, who declared it as time to move out. A quick check of the time showed we had slept for about 3 hours. I am not someone you want to wake from a nap, and the thick mosquitoes and muggy heat did nothing to improve my mood. Shawn quickly paddled down stream while I battled the blood suckers and emptied a large amount of rain water from my canoe. Soon enough I caught up with Joe who was also not in the best mood. Later that night he summed up the rest of the day by saying, happy, sad, moody, or tired when the sun shines we paddle.
We paddled on down stream, battling winds and bad attitudes, simply making the 25 miles. Having lost several hours to the storm we paddled till after sunset making camp at another boat ramp. The ramp had a large gravel parking lot so was free of most mosquitoes. Not having to fight the buzzing blood suckers we sat up rather late game planning for the day of really bad weather that was coming tomorrow.
While we slept a small line of rain passed over but not the larger front we had been hearing about for the last few days. Joe and I were on the water early, battling the wind and watching the darkening sky. We made steady progress for almost 3 hours before the winds began to swirl and the skys darkened. Shawn and I tried to make a quick check of the radar while the winds pushed our boats up and down the river. With no cell service we put to shore at carry in access point and threw up the tents just moments before the rolling thunder and rain were on us. I had a few snacks and was soon napping soundly despite the high winds, rain and crack nearby of lightening. After what seemed like only a few moments I was awakened by Shawn, who declared it as time to move out. A quick check of the time showed we had slept for about 3 hours. I am not someone you want to wake from a nap, and the thick mosquitoes and muggy heat did nothing to improve my mood. Shawn quickly paddled down stream while I battled the blood suckers and emptied a large amount of rain water from my canoe. Soon enough I caught up with Joe who was also not in the best mood. Later that night he summed up the rest of the day by saying, happy, sad, moody, or tired when the sun shines we paddle.
Day 11
Day 11
We were greeted by our enemy the south wind this morning. We were still in good spirits as we looked froward to what we would find in the bump in the road Jacobson 6 miles away. The night before Joe had looked at Google maps and announced he saw a gas station. With visions of ice cream and coke we set off into the south wind. We were relieved to find that the towering silver maples lining the river acted as an effective wind break. Before reaching Jacobson we stropped at the Jacobson campground. The campground was beautifully set on a bluff with tent camping, several small cabins, restrooms and a cold clear piped well. We filled up with about a gallon of water and headed out. About 20 minutes later we arrived at the highway 200 bridge and the fabled gas station. After a walk of about a quarter mile we reached the Mississippi Landing gas station. The selection wasn't huge but we were soon walking back to the boats eating ice cream and carrying chips and cokes. The next location on the map was Willow Wood campsite, and true to form it was overgrown. While this is a wilderness type of trip, the state of Minnesota publishes a map and claims to provide and up keep campsites, most of which are boat only access. Along the river the ticks and mosquitoes are thick like I have never seen but if the brush and grass are cut back the area becomes usable. Building these sites was at one time important to someone, brush was cut back, large metal framed picnic tables, steel campfire and grill rings were installed. For the most part what we see now has not had any real effort towards maintenance in many years. The forest has all but reclaimed them for the most part.
The second part of the day we began to enter and area where the maple trees had been cleared along some areas to provide grazing for cattle. We paddled past fat cows sleeping in the sun and large wooden barns bleached by the sun. We had all been wanting to get a good picture or video of the swans but they have been the most leary of all the birds. Rounding a bend in the river we spotted a fat swan standing on a nest. She did not want to leave the nest and slowly eased into the water and swam up stream. She was so focused on Joe and myself she swam very near Shawn who took a nice video. As we pasted the 2 o'clock hour the winds began to pick up and we had several long sections that required us to paddle with all we had to make a snails pace. We paddled on past Ms Keto campsite as we now agreed it wasn't worth bug bites to see another campsite. A mile later we reached the Verdon rest area and river access built and maintained by Aitkin county. The grass was freshly mowed and brush was cut back. Joe quickly brought up the idea of pushing on because it was only 4:30, I quickly said 25 miles was enough for me and I voted to camp here. Shawn quickly added he was in no hurry to reach the Gulf so he was staying as well. Joe tried for a few minutes to change our minds but soon set out on his own. Shawn suggested cooking a small snack before we set up camp and I fully agreed as I seem to be very hungry all the time now. For the next hour or so we moved about setting up tents, building a fire and I finished with a with a swim and wash before supper. After dinner I checked the radar to look at the rain and storms the weather radio had been talking about for the last two days. The radar showed a small squall line inching towards us and another developing line back in the Dakotas. We crawled into our tents hoping our luck would continue to hold and the rain will come while we sleep and be gone in the morning.
Day 10
Day 10
Leaving Grand Rapids this morning we had a less current than we hoped but no wind. Our first scheduled stop was to be Blackberry campsite 15 miles down river. Within a few miles the homes and docks lining the rivers edge slipped away and we found ourselves alone in the wilds. The river returned to long straight stretches and widened to about 50 feet and a depth of 8 feet. The low sandy banks on the east side grew into a series of sand bluffs towering over the river below. The bluff walls were alive with small birds who burrowed into the bluff face to build nests. The birds were in a flurry of activity as they chased insects and returned to the nests to feed their waiting young. By midday we arrived at the first campsite. We had been warned about the poor conditions at this location. The camp lacked a proper landing but soon enough we were walking the over grown trail leading up the bluff to the campsite on top. The camp was very small and littered with trash. The outhouse was nearly over flowing, and mosquitoes and ticks attacked from all angles driving us back to our boats. Safely back in the river we decided to make the boat ramp nearby our new lunch spot.
After lunch we headed towards Swimming Bear campsite doubtful it wold be much better than the last. As we worked our way down river, many small streams joined the river and the current began to work in our favor. We floated along, paddling more than not and maintained a speed of about 3.5 mph, faster than most people can walk steadily. This area of river had many bald eagles including a few juveniles who did not have the signature white head and tail feathers. The few geese we saw only had one or two young additionally we saw several ducklings minus a parent, the eagles were eating well. Swimming Bear campsite with a new sign was soon greeted us. Again the campsite lacked a proper landing and we were forced to exit the boats into calf deep mud and crawl up a very steep bank. The trail to camp was overgrown but someone had tried to weed eat the grass. I use the word “tried” loosely because we agreed a drunk toddler with a pair of safety scissors could have done better. The camp sat atop a bluff with a great view of the river below but...You could only fit 2 small tents and one would be almost in the fire pit, Joe suggested we head 5 more miles down river to the next boat ramp.
We were all very tired by this point and our best efforts at a speedy finish were sad at best. While drifting around a corner Joe came on doe with two spotted fawns drinking from the river. He was able to get a wonderful video I will try to share here. The last few miles brought us to County Line boat ramp were it was clearly posted no camping, tired and betting no one was braving the mosquitoes we made camp. Over dinner we checked our maps and discovered we had covered 35 miles today, a new best mileage day. We were enjoying camp talk so much I passed out hot coco packets to everyone and Joe produced a bottle of Irish cream liquor. We all agreed that it was a near perfect ending to the most enjoyable river day so far.
On a side note as I lay in my tent typing this the mosquitoes are buzzing around my tent by the millions. There is bat that is coming by every few minutes, sliding along the rain tarp gathering mosquitoes by the mouthful. Nature can be crazy, fun, unpredictable place.
Tuesday, June 12, 2018
Day 9
Day 9
Last night brought more rain showers but we woke dry and rested in Sandy and Jeff's pop up camper in the yard. At 7:15 Sandy had a wonderful breakfast ready, blueberry pancakes, Jeff's homemade maple syrup, scrambled eggs and cantaloupe. We made quick work of eating and rushed out the door to load our boats. As we were preparing to shove off towards Grand Rapids Sandy greed to help Shawn with a on going problem of his. Shawn, who I like to call Noah because his boat contains two of everything, asked Sandy to ship home a small mountain of gear for him. Relived of a few pounds dead weight we headed out into the marsh with slick waters and no wind.
The fist leg of the trip today was 16 miles to the tiny river town of Cohasset. The river was about 40 yards wide and again made half mile straight runs with almost no current but also no wind. The last 4 miles a slight tail wind picked up and it felt like flying to shoot along at 5 plus miles per hour. We covered the 16 miles to the boat ramp in just over 5 hours. Shawn stayed with boats while Joe and I made a quick walk to the A&W for to-go burgers and fries. From Cohasset it is a quick 2 mile paddle to Grand Rapids and the portages.
Grand Rapids has two dams within the town. The first is on the northern edge of town and requires a 50 yard portage of boats and gear, the second is at a local paper plant and requires a 400 yard portage down busy city streets. The paper plant had offered a free portage around both dams until they sold the turbine and generator segment to the local power company a few years ago. Recently the power company has had to cut extra services including the portage service. Guess who works at the power company? yep Jeff. When Jeff found out the portage service was being canceled he and Sandy agreed to take over as unpaid volunteers. Jeff brought the canoe trailer to the dam after getting off work. We loaded all our gear and boats on and down the road we went. Along the way Jeff stopped at both the local sporting goods store and the grocery store so we could grab our first real resupply in 9 days. Our last stop was the camp site located in a green space next to the library and park. Shortly after setting up camp we had a visit from another local River Angel. I can not remember his name but he is the supervisor for the next section of river. He was nice enough to answer all our questions about the upcoming miles. Just before turning in the three of us reflected on the flurry of activity of the last 24 hours compared to the slow, quiet, remote week before. From what we understand we are heading back out into another remote area for the next 5 to 7 days.
Last night brought more rain showers but we woke dry and rested in Sandy and Jeff's pop up camper in the yard. At 7:15 Sandy had a wonderful breakfast ready, blueberry pancakes, Jeff's homemade maple syrup, scrambled eggs and cantaloupe. We made quick work of eating and rushed out the door to load our boats. As we were preparing to shove off towards Grand Rapids Sandy greed to help Shawn with a on going problem of his. Shawn, who I like to call Noah because his boat contains two of everything, asked Sandy to ship home a small mountain of gear for him. Relived of a few pounds dead weight we headed out into the marsh with slick waters and no wind.
The fist leg of the trip today was 16 miles to the tiny river town of Cohasset. The river was about 40 yards wide and again made half mile straight runs with almost no current but also no wind. The last 4 miles a slight tail wind picked up and it felt like flying to shoot along at 5 plus miles per hour. We covered the 16 miles to the boat ramp in just over 5 hours. Shawn stayed with boats while Joe and I made a quick walk to the A&W for to-go burgers and fries. From Cohasset it is a quick 2 mile paddle to Grand Rapids and the portages.
Grand Rapids has two dams within the town. The first is on the northern edge of town and requires a 50 yard portage of boats and gear, the second is at a local paper plant and requires a 400 yard portage down busy city streets. The paper plant had offered a free portage around both dams until they sold the turbine and generator segment to the local power company a few years ago. Recently the power company has had to cut extra services including the portage service. Guess who works at the power company? yep Jeff. When Jeff found out the portage service was being canceled he and Sandy agreed to take over as unpaid volunteers. Jeff brought the canoe trailer to the dam after getting off work. We loaded all our gear and boats on and down the road we went. Along the way Jeff stopped at both the local sporting goods store and the grocery store so we could grab our first real resupply in 9 days. Our last stop was the camp site located in a green space next to the library and park. Shortly after setting up camp we had a visit from another local River Angel. I can not remember his name but he is the supervisor for the next section of river. He was nice enough to answer all our questions about the upcoming miles. Just before turning in the three of us reflected on the flurry of activity of the last 24 hours compared to the slow, quiet, remote week before. From what we understand we are heading back out into another remote area for the next 5 to 7 days.
Monday, June 11, 2018
Day 8
Day 8
There are a group of people on the river we call River Angels. My definition is that they are people preforming random acts of kindness for total strangers. One such Angel held some food for Shawn for when we arrived. Last night Shawn contacted Sandy and Jeff to let them know we were near. We set out early this morning hoping to reach Jeff and Sandy's place on the river before the coming storm hit. After another rough windy 11 miles we arrived at their home on the banks of the river. They had set up a pop up camper for us to stay in and Sandy came home on lunch to show us the shower and laundry room we could use. We took our time and enjoyed the hot shower and did some much needed laundry. When Jeff got home he made us some great wild rice burgers for dinner. They also recently took over a free portage service in Grand Rapids. Tomorrow we should paddle to Grand Rapids and they will meet us with a canoe trailer and portage us around two dams saving us many hours and much headache. They do all this for paddlers out of the kindness of their heart. Today has been a great day or catching up and resting. Life is rough on the river!!
Day 7
Joe and I woke up about 8:30 and to our surprise we saw Shawn at the top of the dam ready to join us in the river below. I walked up to help Shawn carry his gear over the dam and hear his story. Shawn had gotten on the water at 3 AM in order to try to make it the rest of the way across the lake and join back up with us. He said he fought high winds and waves all 13 miles. With everyone back together we set off in the face of high winds. The river in this area had straightened out to 1/4 to 1/2 mile mile runs with a series of curves in between each one. The river released from the dam provided a nice current until the wind picked up. The winds were blowing 15 mph and gusting to 30+ mph. I would be making good time and then a gust would blow towards me stopping me dead in the water. Some sections I would paddle as hard as I could to make just a mile per hour. The river was again moving through a large marsh and I had a great views of hundreds of Teal as they raced about in the high winds as I rested. The winds made for a brutal day for all of us. We reached Gamblers Point campsite late in the day, all of us worn slap out. Shawn had paddled 32 miles and Joe and I had done 19 miles. I took a swim in the river to soak my tired muscles and retired to my tent for the night.
Day 6
I woke up at 4:30 to a sky that was already showing color from the coming sun, piled my gear into the boat and headed across the now smooth Cass Lake. Reaching the other side I guided my canoe over the rock spillover dam and down into the current below. I was hoping to catch Joe and Shawn before they made the next big lake, Lake Winnibigoshish. Lake Winnibigoshish is the third largest inland body of water in the state. The shortest crossing is 16 miles, the state provided map strongly suggests taking a portage around the lake. I paddled hard for 13 miles in hopes of catching the guys but when I arrived at Becker's Resort I had missed them by about 30 minutes. The nice people running the resort told me the guys were going to cross the lake. I asked about getting a portage ride around the lake and was informed it wasn't a problem and that I could hang out, take a shower, and do laundry. I gladly spent most of the afternoon taking them up on the offer. A resort employee Mike gave me and the canoe a ride around the lake and dropped me off at the spillway. Finally having some cell service I learned Joe had almost completed the crossing and Shawn was making his way around the edge of the lake. Joe soon made it over the dam and Shawn pulled into a resort part way and would continue in the morning.
Day 5
The map for the day showed we had a small section of rapids, a few small lakes then big Lake Cass it was going to an interesting day for sure. The section of rapids turned out to be nothing more than a section of very shallow fast water, getting through was more like a game of bump and grind than the fun ride we were looking for. The next section was again in the marsh broken by small lakes with the odd bluff raising above the surrounding marsh. Around mid morning we arrived at Cass Lake, our biggest lake crossing so far at 9 miles with Star Island about 3/4 of the way. We paddled onto the lake with small waves and a 10 mph head wind. The crossing was going well enough for the first 3/4 till we reached Star Island, I looked around and all the big power boats were getting off the water, the waves on the other side of the island were a mass of 4 ft waves and 20+ mph winds. I decided to stay put on Star Island wait for the wind and waves to settle down before continuing. Joe and Shawn plowed on across the lake in their kayaks. I spent the afternoon eating, reading and napping. Late afternoon I decided the wind was not going to let up and made my way along the shore in a several fruitless hours hunting for the campsite marked on my map. Having no luck finding the campsite I set up my tent on the shoreline and went to bed at 5 planning to get up at 4:30 AM and complete the crossing.
Day 4
Day 4
Shawn needed to mail some extra gear home so Joe and I hung out at camp for a bit organizing gear and talking about the battle plan for the 3 mile crossing of Lake Benidji. After Shawn finished with his chore we paddled around to the park and welcome center to meet Joe. We went into the welcome center as Joe started the long lake crossing. An older couple greeted us at the welcome center and chatted us up asking all kinds of questions and took our blog information so they could follow our journey. I was very nervous about the lake crossing we had to make but Shawn and Joe showed nothing but excitement and took off straight across. I paddled up to a point that was part of the narrowest section of lake and turned to cross, waves, wind and all. I was soon being pushed around by the wind and waves, I slid to the center of the canoe and sat on my pack giving me better control. The crossing was not bad and we all made quick work of it. We then entered another small lake and then a wide river channel leading to hydro power plant. We reached the dam and had to unload our boats and carry them around the dam to the river below a process called portaging. Joe and Shawn both have portage wheels so they were able to roll their kayaks along the portage trail. I did not bring wheels, I had built and installed a portage yoke on my canoe. With the canoe empty I rolled it onto the side and then lifted it onto my knee and up onto my shoulders to carry it up the trail and back to the river below. Soon enough we were all loaded and floating in the nice current towards Island Point campsite a mile down stream. After setting up camp we each had a bird bath in the river and called it a day.
Shawn needed to mail some extra gear home so Joe and I hung out at camp for a bit organizing gear and talking about the battle plan for the 3 mile crossing of Lake Benidji. After Shawn finished with his chore we paddled around to the park and welcome center to meet Joe. We went into the welcome center as Joe started the long lake crossing. An older couple greeted us at the welcome center and chatted us up asking all kinds of questions and took our blog information so they could follow our journey. I was very nervous about the lake crossing we had to make but Shawn and Joe showed nothing but excitement and took off straight across. I paddled up to a point that was part of the narrowest section of lake and turned to cross, waves, wind and all. I was soon being pushed around by the wind and waves, I slid to the center of the canoe and sat on my pack giving me better control. The crossing was not bad and we all made quick work of it. We then entered another small lake and then a wide river channel leading to hydro power plant. We reached the dam and had to unload our boats and carry them around the dam to the river below a process called portaging. Joe and Shawn both have portage wheels so they were able to roll their kayaks along the portage trail. I did not bring wheels, I had built and installed a portage yoke on my canoe. With the canoe empty I rolled it onto the side and then lifted it onto my knee and up onto my shoulders to carry it up the trail and back to the river below. Soon enough we were all loaded and floating in the nice current towards Island Point campsite a mile down stream. After setting up camp we each had a bird bath in the river and called it a day.
Day 3
Day 3
I crawled from my tent into a cool damp morning, a slight fog hung over the marsh and nothing was stirring after the storm the night before. Shawn, Joe and myself were glad to report that we all stayed dry and slept like a baby despite the rain and thunder the night before. I choked down a quick carnation instant breakfast drink and jumped into the canoe. My map showed in just a few miles I would have another area of abundant vegetation with the added note that it may be impassable at times. Lucky for me the early season growth was still confined to the river bank and I continued to make good time downriver. About 14 miles into the day my map noted another potential problem, 4 miles marked numerous log jams. As I reached this area on my map the river grew more narrow, 15 ft or less, and entered a wooded area. The shade and change of surroundings were welcome after mile after mile of marsh. The river picked up speed and the banks were lined with gravel and large stones, large trees stuck out from the banks but locals had already cut the trouble makers back opening the channel for easy paddling. It was nice to drift with the current and watch the towering sugar maples blowing in the wind. Just as I thought the day day was coming to a close with Silver Maple campsite just a bit further i began to hear the drone of interstate traffic. Silver Maple campsite sat on a bluff in a bend in the river and 40 yards from a very busy interstate. Shawn and I talked for a few minutes and decided to push on towards the town of Bemidji 3 miles down river.
As Shawn rounded a bend in front of me I saw his head drop and shake as he looked at a large silver maple that had fallen across the river channel. Having looked the tree over I decided we might be able to get past with the removal of a few branches. With a few swings of my machete and a some man power we were back on our way towards town. The last hurdle was a 1 mile lake crossing with a 15 mph wind and 2 foot waves, with visions of beer and burgers we dug deep and blasted across. We quickly found a spot to make camp on the opposite shore and waited on Joe. Luck was with Joe as the wind laid down and he made a quick easy paddle across.
That evening we enjoyed beer and burgers and talked excitedly about how far ahead of schedule we were and how awesome it was to have completed our first 20+ mile day, only 3 days into the trip.
I crawled from my tent into a cool damp morning, a slight fog hung over the marsh and nothing was stirring after the storm the night before. Shawn, Joe and myself were glad to report that we all stayed dry and slept like a baby despite the rain and thunder the night before. I choked down a quick carnation instant breakfast drink and jumped into the canoe. My map showed in just a few miles I would have another area of abundant vegetation with the added note that it may be impassable at times. Lucky for me the early season growth was still confined to the river bank and I continued to make good time downriver. About 14 miles into the day my map noted another potential problem, 4 miles marked numerous log jams. As I reached this area on my map the river grew more narrow, 15 ft or less, and entered a wooded area. The shade and change of surroundings were welcome after mile after mile of marsh. The river picked up speed and the banks were lined with gravel and large stones, large trees stuck out from the banks but locals had already cut the trouble makers back opening the channel for easy paddling. It was nice to drift with the current and watch the towering sugar maples blowing in the wind. Just as I thought the day day was coming to a close with Silver Maple campsite just a bit further i began to hear the drone of interstate traffic. Silver Maple campsite sat on a bluff in a bend in the river and 40 yards from a very busy interstate. Shawn and I talked for a few minutes and decided to push on towards the town of Bemidji 3 miles down river.
As Shawn rounded a bend in front of me I saw his head drop and shake as he looked at a large silver maple that had fallen across the river channel. Having looked the tree over I decided we might be able to get past with the removal of a few branches. With a few swings of my machete and a some man power we were back on our way towards town. The last hurdle was a 1 mile lake crossing with a 15 mph wind and 2 foot waves, with visions of beer and burgers we dug deep and blasted across. We quickly found a spot to make camp on the opposite shore and waited on Joe. Luck was with Joe as the wind laid down and he made a quick easy paddle across.
That evening we enjoyed beer and burgers and talked excitedly about how far ahead of schedule we were and how awesome it was to have completed our first 20+ mile day, only 3 days into the trip.
Day 2
Day 2
I slept in till 10, I was exhausted and wanted to give Shawn my paddling buddy a chance to catch up. The day was clear and warm as I packed up camp and prepared to another day on the water. I hung around camp till about 11 waiting to see if Shawn came paddling by, with no sign of him I pushed off and pointed the canoe down river. My map warned the next 2+ miles had abundant vegetation, lucky for me I had no problems and the river continued switching back and forth through the marsh. Towards the middle of my day I rounded a bend to see two Sandhill Cranes doing a mating dance. Both had their wings held high, necks stretched skyward and were lifting their feet into the air dancing in circles while giving their strange mating call. While they were unaware I was there, I was doing my best not to laugh at the crazy marsh dance happening in front of me. Towards the end of the day I was gaining confidence in how to pilot my canoe through all the winding turns and wondering, Where was Shawn? As I rounded the bend towards camp I was greeted with a smiling stranger fishing on the landing. The young man introduced himself as Joe and told me he and Shawn had passed me early in the morning. Camp for the night would be Bear Den, a small meadow situated on top of a bluff overlooking the marsh for miles around. We had built a small fire and spent dinner talking of all the beautiful things we had seen the last two days. Before the sunset we were all in our tents and sound asleep, not even the thunderstorm that passed that evening could keep my tired eyes open for more than a moment.
I slept in till 10, I was exhausted and wanted to give Shawn my paddling buddy a chance to catch up. The day was clear and warm as I packed up camp and prepared to another day on the water. I hung around camp till about 11 waiting to see if Shawn came paddling by, with no sign of him I pushed off and pointed the canoe down river. My map warned the next 2+ miles had abundant vegetation, lucky for me I had no problems and the river continued switching back and forth through the marsh. Towards the middle of my day I rounded a bend to see two Sandhill Cranes doing a mating dance. Both had their wings held high, necks stretched skyward and were lifting their feet into the air dancing in circles while giving their strange mating call. While they were unaware I was there, I was doing my best not to laugh at the crazy marsh dance happening in front of me. Towards the end of the day I was gaining confidence in how to pilot my canoe through all the winding turns and wondering, Where was Shawn? As I rounded the bend towards camp I was greeted with a smiling stranger fishing on the landing. The young man introduced himself as Joe and told me he and Shawn had passed me early in the morning. Camp for the night would be Bear Den, a small meadow situated on top of a bluff overlooking the marsh for miles around. We had built a small fire and spent dinner talking of all the beautiful things we had seen the last two days. Before the sunset we were all in our tents and sound asleep, not even the thunderstorm that passed that evening could keep my tired eyes open for more than a moment.
Thursday, June 7, 2018
Day 1
Day 1
Reaching the headwaters of the Mississippi River had begun two days, two trains and truck ride ago but as I looked at Lake Itasca and the start of the river none of that mattered. The river here starts as a small stream about 8 feet wide and 8 inches deep a far cry from the giant muddy milkshake i knew from home in Mississippi. The river twisted and turn through the woods for about half a mile before entering its first section of marsh were it grew to 3 to 4 deep but still very narrow. The river bottom was covered in ribbons of light green grass 12 to 18 inches long each waving in the current, forming a a magic carpet waving and pointing the way south. The first 5 miles the marsh banked river twisted and turned constantly, forcing me to make multi point turns over and over because it is difficult to turn the 15 foot canoe in a 140 degree turn 6 feet wide.
Next we reached reached Vekins dam a mass of boulders and logs blocking our way south. Unable to paddle forward everything was unloaded from the canoe and carried about 30 yards down the portage trail and back into the river below. The map showed 4 miles of class 1 rapids to follow. I quickly learned that the river was going to be very shallow and filled with large boulders and logs. The game quickly became one of bumper boat from one boulder to another broken by periods of dragging the canoe over long shallow sections of gravel with only inches of water to float the canoe. In the few areas with enough water to paddle the overhanging tree branches slapped at me and the canoe doing their best to stop any real progress.
None to soon the river spit us out of the shallow woods and back into another marsh. By this point I was very tired and ready to make camp but first I had to battle through 5 more miles of switch back turns. The river would turn and not having room to turn the canoe I would ram into the soft bank ahead, I would back paddle swinging the front into the turn until the back of the canoe hit that bank behind me. Then paddle forward a few inches till the front hit the bank again, back paddle, front paddle over and over till I was finally able to force the 15 foot boat through the 5 to 6 foot turn. Free from the turn I would drift a hundred or so yards till the next turn were the game was repeated over and over again.
The small campsite at Coffee Pot Landing was a welcome site. The campsite was located in a small grassy clearing with two small three sided shelters made of logs. I quickly put up my tent, ate a supper of ramen noodles and climbed into my sleeping bag for a much needed night of rest.
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